“Hangzhou is China’s number one city,” mutters Tony, our tour guide, in broken English.  He’s referring to the city’s ranking in a recently published Forbes survey on the most business-friendly Chinese city.  As we emerged from the recently refurbished Hangzhou-Xiaoshan International Airport and out to the cold autumn driveway, we thought that Tony’s statement could refer to just about anything offered by this bustling city.

An old Chinese proverb goes, “In heaven, there is paradise, on earth Hangzhou.”  This being our second time to set foot here, the changes after eleven years have been spectacular.  Located in the Zhejiang province south of Beijing, Hangzhou, with its cool climate (winters aren’t as harsh compared to China’s capital) and numerous historical sites, is one of the favorite tourist destinations of local Chinese.  Yet, despite being China’s version of Baguio or Tagaytay, Hangzhou is by no means a small, rustic town.  The airport connects to the city center via a large eight-kilometer, four-lane expressway similar to Manila's Skyway.  The billiard table-smooth surface is surprising enough, but the shock and awe comes at the sight of eight-lane highways leading in and out of the city.

There are two major areas in Hangzhou, a tourist and financial/business district.  The former is void of any tall buildings and billboards, preserving the feel of the Hangzhou visited in the 13th century by Marco Polo.  He described the city as the ‘most splendid in the world’.  Meanwhile, the latter is very modern and upscale, much like a mini-Singapore.  Public transportation  is convenient, thanks to a multi-million dollar modernization program.  Taxis are the easiest way to get around, but be wary of the drivers as they tend to charge foreigners exorbitantly.  Buses, either electric or diesel-powered, are the most reliable way to get around.  However, since the bus stops are written in Chinese characters, it’s best to have a local tourist map guide you.  A subway system is in the works for the city, and should be completed by the time the Olympic Games kick off in 2008.

Being booked at the city’s premiere hotel, Shangri-la Hotel Hangzhou, we got the same level of luxury and service expected of this renowned international hotel chain.  What further distinguishes this one is its excellent location and façade.  Situated in front of the famous West Lake (Xi Hu), Shangri-la Hotel Hangzhou looks decisively like a Chinese Buddhist temple with its vast gardens, spacious grounds, and ornamental detailing.  The design is grand and marvelous, while still leaving a soothing and relaxing environment for even the most stressed business traveler.  The same theme is echoed inside by the use of Chinese paintings and ceramics, making it look like a traditional courtyard.  The staff speaks passable English, making it easy to inquire about where to get a cab, what’s the best place to go to, and how to exchange currency.

Stroll outside the hotel and you'll see the magnificent West Lake.  The area around the 3-kilometer long, 3-kilometer wide lake is dotted with benches, gardens, picnic grounds, and food stalls.  The on-going renovation cements Hangzhou’s reputation as the “Honeymoon Capital of China”.  The pedestrian-only causeways (Baidi and Sudi) split the lake into two, giving the phrase ‘a walk in the park’ a new meaning.  There are small islets within Xi Hu, the biggest of which is Solitary Hill Island (Gu Shan).  Connected via the Baidi causeway, Gu Shan is home to the Zhejiang Provincial Museum.  This free attraction offers a glimpse of Chinese history as seen from the city’s perspective as the country’s former capital.  It also houses the West Lake Art Gallery and Hangzhou’s most famous restaurant, Louwailou Caiguan.

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