T I D B I T S    F E A T U R E

If you've ever driven in Manila, you know that it wavers between heaven and hell, with very little middle ground.  Hit the streets at the right time for your chosen destination, and you'll encounter smooth traffic flow, with few stops.  Start your trip when traffic's peaking, or throw in a few road repairs, and you can finish reading a novel before you get there.

Is it the same everywhere else in Asia?  We decided to take a look at two extremes in Southeast Asia—Bali vs. Singapore.  Rustic tropical island vs. high-tech futurama.  Would driving be any better in these two places?

Bali, Indonesia

Bali equals paradise in the minds of most people.  However, people usually think of it in the romantic-getaway sense, not the driving-pleasure sense.  Surely many small islands contain adrenaline-rush roads, but utilitarian asphalt strips nestled in a tropical haven doesn't seem to be one of them.  In this case, that preconception turns out to be true.

Deriving nearly all of its income from tourism activities, Bali's four-wheeled transportation is also geared for such.  Tourist mini-buses and Asian Utility Vehicles like the Toyota Kijang dominate the local roads.  The Tamaraw is the Philippine version of the Indonesian Kijang.  They're identical except for the Indonesian being right-hand drive, and the animal on the badge has antlers and not horns.  Other AUVs abound, like the Mitsubishi Freeca and Isuzu Kuda--that's the Adventure and Highlander to us folks.

Most of these tourist vehicles are less than 5 years old, and are comfortable (meaning, airconditioned and well-cushioned).  Don't expect a Rolls Royce to pick you up from the airport—even if you're staying in one of the five-star hotels.  Luxury sedans are a rare sight in Bali, as there's no reason for keeping an S-class or LS430 in such a small place.  One end to the other of the island won't take more than three hours, while one tourist spot to the other usually takes less than one. 

Not surprisingly, Bali's roads are mostly two-laners, expanding to four when approaching major structures like the airport or downtown Denpasar.  We were pleasantly surprised to find the roads well-paved, with quick-flowing traffic except around major tourist spots.

Locals forego four-wheeled transport altogether.  They get around on scooters and motorbikes.  They zip about heedless of other traffic, passing on the left, right, before you, behind you—anywhere they can squeeze in.  Traffic lights are few and given only a token obedience.  For more upscale locals, mini-offroaders like the Daihatsu Terios and Suzuki Katana are the vehicle of choice. 

The result of all of this: mildly chaotic traffic, but no jams thanks to the relatively few cars and smooth roads.   Yes, it's paradise, but not for driving; leave that to your friendly cab or tour bus driver.

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